Fotos: Armando Romero
Hablar de seda, es hablar de Valencia y, por supuesto, hablar de Fallas. Fue precisamente el comercio de la seda uno de los pilares del Siglo de Oro valenciano en el siglo XV y este año, el mismo en el que conmemoraremos el 20 aniversario de la Lonja de la Seda como Patrimonio Mundial y en el que viviremos la reapertura del Colegio del Arte Mayor de la Seda, la Unesco, además, ha confirmado la elección de Valencia como sede del Programa Ruta de la Seda.
2016 está destinado a ser el año de la seda, algo que saben muy bien en Vives y Marí, una empresa que hace ya más de medio siglo nació en el levante para preservar la tradición sedera valenciana. En la década de 1950, Luis Vives Magriñá y José Marí Cotino, dos jóvenes y expertos tejedores que dan nombre a la firma, unieron sus habilidades y comenzaron a trazar y tejer la que hoy en día es una de las firmas más reconocidas en el sector de la seda en la Comunitat Valenciana.
En los años 50 comenzaron a ver la luz los primeros trabajos artesanales: los primeros damascos, tejidos de ornamentación religiosa y espolines para, más tarde, introducir los primeros telares mecánicos que hicieron posible la producción de rasos, tafetanes y brocados con los que pudieron ampliar su oferta. Con la unión al equipo de Vicente Bayot, Jaime García y Manuel Aznar nació la empresa que hoy en día conocemos como Vives y Marí.
Modernidad, experiencia y tradición se unen en las instalaciones de Vives y Marí de Xirivella. La posibilidad de recuperar bocetos y muestras antiguas, así como su importante archivo les permite crear sedas que, en el caso de los tejidos regionales, les ha convertido en firma oficial en Valencia, Alicante y Castellón, así como en las juntas locales más importantes de nuestro territorio.
Anualmente presentan una gran variedad de colores y dibujos nuevos pero, sin duda, el tejido más especial de la casa es el espolín. Este tejido adquiere su nombre de la lanzadera con la que se trabaja y teje la seda hasta confeccionar un tejido espolinado único y artesanal y, sobre todo, muy laborioso. Tal y como explican los responsables de la firma, durante un día de trabajo en sus talleres se reaiza solo de 10 a 12 centímetros de seda.
La creación del espolín es totalmente personalizable y, de esta manera, en Vives y Marí son capaces de crear la seda soñada. Para ello, los clientes cuentan el asesoramiento de los responsables de la marca y con el apoyo de una importante labor de documentación.
En las últimas décadas se han recuperado bocetos y muestras antiguas inspirados en los dictámenes de la moda de los siglos XVIII y XIX; el trabajo de estudio de sus profesionales es capaz de dar vida a dibujos con hasta tres siglos de historia y que, en algunas ocasiones, estaban perdidos en el tiempo.
Un año más, Junta Central Fallera tiene el privilegio de tener entre sus indumentaristas oficiales a Vives y Marí que ya ultima los detalles de la seda más importante del reinado de la Fallera Mayor de Valencia. El espolín que Alicia Moreno lucirá en su exaltación el último fin de semana de enero es, hoy por hoy, uno de los secretos mejor guardados y, sin duda, uno lo los tejidos que marcarán este 2016, el año de la seda en Valencia.
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